A week ago Sunday, I stopped at a street food cart in Battery Park
City. It is one that I had passed by multiple times and often contemplated
patronizing. In the end, though, I always concluded that I didn’t particularly
like what was on the menu. Still, there was this curious and powerful pull at
work—a byproduct of my boyhood, I think, when those hot dogs and crinkle-cut
French fries had unmistakable allure.
The cart in question serves up Nathan’s famous frankfurters,
since 1916, and their very deep fried potatoes. When I was a youth, there was a big Nathan’s restaurant on Central Park Avenue in Yonkers. It was about a
fifteen-minute drive from my front door in the Bronx. I fondly remember
consuming their dogs and fries on an outside picnic table. My kid-friendly
stomach never failed to appreciate franks and fried anything by the side of the
road. It is not the case anymore.
Anyway, I threw caution to the wind last week and purchased
two hot dogs—plain—and an order of crinkle-cut fries. I don’t use any
condiments, except ketchup occasionally on my French fries. That’s something that has
remained constant in my life. The picture menu on the outside of the cart
included numerous condiment possibilities for the wieners, including
sauerkraut, cheese, and chili. The crinkle-cuts, too, could be topped with
melted cheese, bacon bits, or chili. Suffice it to say, my contemporary stomach
couldn’t stomach any such additions.
Interestingly, I never really liked Nathan’s packaged hot
dogs from the supermarket. I found they had a disagreeable crunch and left a
strong garlicky aftertaste. But I boiled them at home. That’s not quite the
same as putting them on a griddle en masse, where they commingle with one
another and tan an appealing black-brown. The frankfurter, for me, was a thing I
relished in the fresh air at baseball games, cookouts, and from street wagons.
Home cooking of them was—more often than not—a strikeout.
I guess I hoped to reclaim a glimmer of my youthful appreciation of things no
longer appreciated. Mission accomplished? Not quite. The franks tasted very, very
salty, but the crunch didn’t turn me off as they typically did in the cozy confines of home. It was the crinkle-cut
French fries that pushed me over the limit, I believe, reminding me once more that you can’t
go home again. The squirrels and sparrows, who got the lion’s share of
them, enjoyed the greasy potatoes a lot more than me. The bottle of lukewarm water
that I washed them down with proved to be my only salvation.
Next time, I vowed to call on a smoothie seller, which are
now competing in earnest with the hot dog and pretzel mob. But less than a week
later—on Saturday—when I passed by a fellow selling every imaginable smoothie
drink, I didn’t stop. I had skipped breakfast and was too hungry to settle for a mysterious fruit cocktail. For some inexplicable reason, though, I couldn’t get past the
previous week’s salty hot dog experience. They were on my mind as I wondered
what eating a couple of them would be like sans the unnecessary complication of
uber-greasy French fries. And so I got up for Round Two. My conclusion: I’d eat
Nathan’s franks in the future. They are certainly a giant step above their main
competitor on the street: Sabrett. But I fully accept that Nathan’s famous fare
will never taste like it did forty years ago on that picnic table down wind of
a heavily trafficked thoroughfare.
(Photographs from the personal collection of Nicholas Nigro)